Dobson and Parnell | Newcastle Quayside

Dobson and Parnell takes its name from John Dobson and Richard Grainger – the architect and developer who designed central Newcastle in the early nineteenth century. The restaurant on the Quayside earns the architectural reference: it operates at a level that justifies being named after the people who built one of England’s finest Georgian city centres.

The Cooking

Andy Hook’s kitchen focuses on British cooking with a strong commitment to North East sourcing. The menu changes regularly and reflects what is available from the specific suppliers the kitchen works with. The fish sourced from North Sea landings, the game from Northumberland estates, the vegetables from regional growers – the menu is an argument that the North East provides everything a serious kitchen needs without looking to London or beyond.

The Menu

The a la carte format gives diners control over the experience. The menu is not long – focused, seasonal, changed frequently enough that regular visitors always find something new. The fish cookery is consistently the strongest element. The dessert section has historically been the part of the menu that attracts specific praise from those who track these things closely.

The Room

Dobson and Parnell is a well-designed, comfortable dining room. The Quayside location gives it river views that are used well. The room avoids being either stuffy or casual – it sits at the exact point of formality where a good meal feels appropriately celebrated without requiring a specific occasion to justify going. The service is professional and the knowledge of what is on the plate is genuine.

Value

At its price level, Dobson and Parnell offers serious value relative to equivalent cooking in London. The set lunch in particular is the kind of proposition that is hard to find in the capital at twice the price. A three course lunch with a glass of wine from a kitchen at this level, at this price, is one of Newcastle’s better arguments for itself as a food destination.